No sooner had we launched our four canoes in the Allagash Wilderness Waterway in northernmost Maine than a strong wind arose, barreling down the river from the north, smack in our faces. We had hoped ...

When a light rain falls on the Allagash, which is often this time of year, the river sounds like it’s sizzling. The soft white noise complements the soft white fog that hovers above the water’s ...

Take a page out of Henry David Thoreau’s book, and paddle on northern Maine’s remote Allagash River. “Here was traveling of the old heroic kind over the unaltered face of nature,” he wrote in The ...

a few dusty bridges, a historic lumber camp, and the occasional distant rumble of a logging truck.

It is early October in New England and the maples are riotous with color. To our south looms grand, solitary Mount Katahdin, at 5,267 feet the highest mountain in Maine. To our north stretches a ...

THE RIVER POURS between the boulders, each scarred with red and green paint left by canoes that didn’t thread this needle quite neatly enough. Standing in the boat, I twist to the right to plant the ...